This style of whitework originated in Renaissance Italy, where nuns created fine textiles for ecclesiastical use, first removing threads, then whole sections of background fabric to fully exploit a contrast between light and shade.
© Victoria and Albert Museum, LondonĬutwork describes any form of embroidery based on a woven ground from which sections have been cut away and edged. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London The Thornton Chasuble, 1510 – 1533. Left to right: La Ligne H, evening ensemble with goldwork (detail), designed by Christian Dior, embroidered by Bodin Brossin, 1954 – 55, France. Many couture designers have often insisted on the use of real precious metal threads – often combined with additional elements like beads and faceted glass – to inject extra glamour into eveningwear. Goldwork remains an important element of religious, military and ceremonial regalia, and is also still used to dramatic effect in the traditional Indian embroidery style zardosi. These were gloriously opulent embroideries which often depicted scenes from the Bible. Between 12, goldwork in England reached remarkable heights of artistry and technical accomplishment in the pieces known collectively as opus anglicanum (meaning 'English work' in Latin). Originally using pure gold, this style has been in existence for at least 2,000 years, and has always been associated with wealth and status. Goldwork is a form of embroidery worked in gold or gilt-metal threads. Chinese embroidery has four distinct regional styles: Shu xiu (Sichuan), featuring mostly natural-world motifs Su xiu (Jiangsu), in which colours are more naturalistic Xiang xiu (Hunan), known for emulating paintings, engravings and calligraphy and Yue xiu (Guangdong), characterised by the use of strong colours, no attempt to produce an illusion of depth, and a prevalence of dragons and phoenix motifs.Ĭhinese silk embroidered panel (detail), maker unknown, 18th century, China. Untwisted (flat) silk threads create a rich sheen and, when combined with padded stitching, create wonderful three-dimensional effects twisted threads are stronger and create bolder lines. It typically uses a variety of stitch styles, and a wide range of time-honoured designs: figurative motifs depicting flowers, birds and animals, as well as geometric and abstract patterns. © Victoria and Albert Museum, LondonĬhinese silk embroidery (xiu) has been practised in China for thousands of years. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London Needlework embroidered cushion cover, Jessie Newbery, about 1900, Scotland. Left to right: Wall hanging with art needlework embroidery (detail), designed by William Morris, made by Mrs Ada Phoebe Godman, 1877 – 1900, England.
Experimental work inspired loosely by Art needlework was produced by Jessie Newbery, an embroiderer and teacher at the Glasgow School of Art. Art needlework was also supported by the establishment of the Royal School of Needlework in 1872, which aimed to restore "Ornamental Needlework for secular purposes, to the high place it once held amongst decorative arts". Morris felt that the Victorian obsession with Berlin woolwork was responsible for the decline in needle skills, and instead promoted more traditional techniques, which were often inspired by nature and influenced by historic textiles from Italy, Iran (then Persia) and Turkey.
Art needlework is a style of embroidery championed in the 19th century by designer William Morris, a key figure in the Arts and Crafts movement.